PHANG NGA BAY

My guide, Tam, sitting behind me in the kayak, has already pointed out the aptly named Ko Kai, Chicken Island, so named because its skinny, skewed peak resembles a scrawny hen’s neck. Later we’ll see Ko Hong which Tam assures me is “an island with a room inside it” – …

LAI RUA FAI

The huge vessel drifts past our bank then disappears downstream like a fiery ghost. Another boat, of equal intricacy and size follows, then another and another. In Thai these are known as rua fai, although English approximations like “illuminated boats” or “fire boats” hardly do justice to these spectacular, artistic …