CHIANG KHAN

Then the Janus-faced joker of tourism wandered into town. Starting with a trickle of savvy Bangkokians in search of something more authentically Thai than mega-malls and franchised life, the word spread that here was a piece of heritage that hadn’t yet been slam-dunked with T-shirt stalls and market kitsch. “Yes, …

SONGKRAN

“Two million people have left town,” says my driver, Chum as we negotiate the central Bangkok traffic. “That only leaves about six million for the water fight,” I answer. Our head counts may not be too accurate, but many of Bangkok’s approximately seven million residents leave town at this time …

DON HOI LORD

‘This is the only place in world that you’ll find hoi lord.” says our guide Panada. She leads us along a row of restaurants almost as unique as the straw shellfish itself. The twenty or so spidery structures in bamboo, perched high on pylons above the waterfront mangroves, are thronged …